Winemonger Talk

  • What to Drink With It - Vaughn-Duffy Rosé & Cheesy-Brussels-Pancetta Flatbread

    Vaughn-Duffy Rosé

    Sara Vaughn, wife (and inspiration) of winemaker Matt Duffy, shared her recipe for Brussels Sprout, Pancetta and Parmesan Flatbreads in the October 2012 issue of Food & Wine magazine*. It was part of a great article about "harvest widows"- the wives of a gang of winemakers in Sonoma who have banded together during the weeks when their husbands are basically in the fields and at the winery 24-7. They are, of course, good friends year-round, but we loved the name of their gang and the idea behind it.

    Matt Duffy makes not only their eponymous Vaughn-Duffy wines (Pinot, Syrah & Rosé), but is also the winemaker for Easkoot Pinot Noir. He is a crazy talented fellow-- but this post is about his equally crazy talented wife, Sara, who has created this recipe to pair perfectly with their Vaughn-Duffy Rosé.


    Brussels Sprouts, Pancetta & Parmesan Flatbreads

    DOUGH
    1 envelope (1/4 ounce) instant dry yeast
    1 cup warm water
    1 teaspoon sugar
    1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
    1 teaspoon kosher salt
    1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

    TOPPING
    1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
    1 large white onion, halved and thinly sliced
    1 pound brussels sprouts, thinly sliced (5 cups)
    5 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated (1 1/2 cups)
    1/4 pound thinly sliced pancetta, torn into 2-inch strips

    Salt and freshly ground pepper
    Lemon wedges and Asian chili oil, for serving

    MAKE THE DOUGH

    In a bowl, combine the yeast with the water and sugar and let it stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add the 1 tablespoon of oil, sale and 2 cups of the flour and stir until a soft dough forms. Knead in the remaining 1/2 cup of flour. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until firm yet supple, 5 minutes. Lightly brush the bowl with oil. Add the dough and cover with plastic wrap; let stand until doubled in bulk, 1 hour.

    MAKE THE TOPPING
    In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion, cover and cook over moderately high heat until softened, 5 minutes; reduce the heat and cook, stirring, until very soft and lightly carmelized, 15 minutes. Transfer the onion to a bowl and let cool slightly. Add the brussels sprouts, cheese and pancetta to the bowl and season with salt and pepper. Stir in 1/4 cup of the olive oil.

    Preheat the oven to 450 and position racks int eh upper and lower thirds. Lightly brush 2 rimmed baking sheets with olive oil. On a lightly floured work surface, cut the dough in half and shape each piec into a 13-by-15-inch rectangle 1/4 inch thick. Transfer the dough to the baking sheets and brush with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Spread the topping on the flatbreads and bake for 25 minutes, until golden and crispy. Shift the pans from top to bottom and front to back halfway through. Slide the flatbreads onto a work surface. Cut into rectangles and serve with lemon wedges and Asian chili oil.

    Learn more about Vaughn-Duffy wines here, and more about Easkoot Cellars here.

    *We hope Food & Wine magazine doesn't mind our sharing this recipe here... and we highly recommend you subscribe to their publication.

  • Greet the Grape - St. Laurent

    The St. Laurent grape (AKA Sankt Laurent, Laurenzitraube, Sankt Lorenz Traube, Pinot St. Laurent*) is generally believed to be a natural crossing between the Pinot Noir grape and some unknown partner- tho there is a faction of folks who are trying to disprove the Pinot connection. We rather like the idea and think of it as being the wild cousin of Pinot. It is, however, most certainly the parent alongside Blaufrankisch of the Zweigelt grape.

    Its name has been attributed to the Bordeaux village of the same name (as it is believed to have landed in Austria from France via Alsace and Germany in the mid 1860s) but other explanations point to Saint Laurentius day (10th of August), the day on which this grape allegedly likes to begin its ripening phase. St. Laurent is notorious for an early bud-break which can lead to trouble in countries like Austria where late frost is common, as it is very sensitive and frost will likely cause millerandange (shot berries). “You have to be a little crazy to grow this varietal ” winemaker Birgit Braunstein once confessed to me, “but I believe the rewards merit the pain of it all.”

    Sankt Laurent

    The St. Laurent sports juicy berries, velvety tannins and it is often quite mouth-filling. Its color leans towards a deep, dark red. St. Laurent wines tend to be fruity and multi-layered, and with just a little bit of age, a St. Laurent wine can develop an exceptionally smooth texture. However, it is the wine's bright sour-cherry aromas and flavors, which are typically offset by subtle tartness, that has its fans raving.

    St. Laurent wines pair well with your favorite spice cookies, a duck or other flying dinner, cheeses, BBQ and almost anything else you are not supposed to eat.

    And here- a few words about this grape from our in-house Mongerer, James Wright:
    "St Laurent is a relative of the Pinot Noir—on one side related, although the identity of the second parent remains uncertain… Current wisdom reports that it came from Alsace via Germany some hundred-fifty years ago. Its name comes from the fact that the early-ripening berries first become edible on or around St Laurence’s day, the 10th of August. The grape has enjoyed a resurgence in Austria in the last decade, after having dwindled rather badly during the Bordeaux-dizzy 1990s… Sometimes I describe it as "Pinot Noir's kinky cousin"—it frequently offers a wild edge that the PN does not, and a tendency to show a slightly lactic texture, but on other occasions it doesn't fall too far afield. Not so long ago over lunch, the Pfälzer winegrower Rainer Lingenfelder told me that he would've picked Hannes Schuster's '07 St Laurent Klassisch for a Pinot Noir, had I played him a guessing-game with it. (Good friend Rainer also confessed that the Germans are having a hard time figuring out how to work with the variety...) The vine likes Pinot Noir soils, limestone and the like, open fermenters and natural yeasts.

    My experience on the tasting jury of the Austrian publisher Medianet-Verlag in Vienna leads me to conclude that this is the variety most often abused by Austrian winemakers, with the murder-weapon most frequently being a French barrique from François Frères… But you'll find nothing of that sort from our boy Hannes Schuster! -exactly the opposite, the epitome of honest expressiveness."

    *additional AKA's: Blauer Saint Laurent, Chvartser, Laourentstraoube, Laurenztraube, Lorentstraube, Lorenztraube, Lovrenac Crni, Lovrijenac, Lovrijenac Crni, Pinot Sent Laourent, Saint Laurent Noir, Saint Lorentz, Sankt Lorenztraube, Sant Lorentz, Schwarzer, Schwarzer Lorenztraube, Sent Laourent, Sent Lovrenka, Sentlovrenka, Shentlovrenka, Shvartser, St. Laurent, Svati Vavrinetz, Svatovavřinecké, Svatovavrinetske, Svatovavrinetzke, Svätovavrinecké, Svaty Vavrinec, Szent Lőrinc, Szent Lőrinczi, Szent Loerine, Szentlőrinc, Vavrinak

  • Chef Chiarello Pairs Our Gruner With His Ceviche

    Chef Michael Chiarello

    Chef Michael Chiarello has honored us again by choosing one of our wines for his Napa Style Wine Club. Of course, a court-side seat to a taping of Iron Chef would also be great, but we'll take the club pick and the recipe he put together to pair with our Stift Goettweig Gruner Veltliner: a Bay Scallop and Grapefruit Ceviche with Avocado and Radish.

    Chef Chiarello says "The wine is animated on the nose with notes of citrus, red apple and rosewood. You may pick up notions of tangerine zest and a pleasing stony minerality. On the palate, it’s zesty and bracing with flavors of green apple, pear and spice."

    He also suggests: If you are not a big fan of ceviche, take all the same ingredients and create a lovely warm salad as an appetizer or main course. Just skip the marinating of the scallops and sauté them in some butter or extra-virgin olive oil. Then combine all the remaining ingredients in the assembly section and add to the salad greens. Take the marinade and reduce the fruit juices by half for vinaigrette to dress the salad.

    But around here, it's Summertime right now and this cold ceviche paired with a chilled bottle of Gruner Veltliner sounds just right!

    BAY SCALLOPS AND GRAPEFRUIT CEVICHE WITH AVOCADO AND RADISH
    Serves: Serves 6

    Bay Scallop and Grapefruit Ceviche

    INGREDIENTS
    For the marinade:
    Zest and juice of 3 grapefruit
    Zest and juice of 3 lemons
    1 teaspoon Gray salt
    1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
    1 serrano chili-thinly sliced
    1 teaspoon freshly chopped thyme
    3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

    To assemble:
    1 pound Fresh bay scallops
    4 scallions, white and light green parts only, sliced thin
    1/2 cup minced redonion
    1/2 cup small diced red bell peppers
    3 avocados-peeled and medium diced
    3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
    1 1/2 tablespoonchopped cilantro
    2 English breakfast radishes-sliced thinly on mandolin
    6 cups baby salad greens

    DIRECTIONS
    Make the marinade:
    Combine all marinade ingredients except for olive oil in theblender. Blend until well combines and slowly drizzle in olive oil. Pour into abowl and reserve.

    Assembly:
    In a non-reactive mixing bowl combine the scallops,scallions, onion, peppers, cilantro, and parsley with the marinade. Dress theavocado lightly with some of the leftover marinade. Allow to marinate chilled for 2 hours. Place the greens on a large servingplate. Using a slotted spoon remove theceviche and place on top of the greens leaving some of the marinadebehind. Place the avocado over thegreens. Fold the sliced radishes into the ceviche. Drizzle a little of the marinade over theplate and serve.

  • Pea and Crab Lettuce Cups paired with Gruner Veltliner

    Here we are in the dog days of Summer, and I can't think of anything more refreshing on a warm evening than a glass of very chilled, very crisp Gruner Veltliner (some ideas on that below) paired with this lovely recipe for pea & crab lettuce wraps. I find on a hot day that just a whole slew of these can do for dinner, but served as a first course or simple snack for guests of course works as well. You'll love the sweetness of the peas and crab set up against the slight bitterness of the endive, all made lively by the fresh lemon juice - and that's exactly why it pairs so perfectly with the Gruner: no grape goes better with shellfish as the minerality plays so well with any kind of brine, and the herbaceousness balances the subtle sweet the pea gives the cup.

    Pea Crab Salad

    INGREDIENTS:
    Salt and ground black pepper
    1 1/2 cups shelled fresh peas (you can use frozen- but fresh is really so much better & worth the shellin' time spent!)
    1 medium onion, preferably white, finely chopped
    1/2 a yellow bell pepper, minced. Red or orange works as well, or a combination. Not green!
    6 to 8 ounces fresh cooked crabmeat
    3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, or to taste
    Freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste
    Endive leaves. You can use butter lettuce, or even iceberg, but they will lack that nice bitterness.
    Shredded basil or chopped parsley leaves for garnish. If you used butter or iceberg, add a bit of baby arugula to the herb garnish.

    PREPARATION
    1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil and salt it. Poach peas in water until bright green, about 30 seconds, and remove with a slotted spoon; drain and cool for a few minutes. If you would like a milder flavor, poach onions for 15 seconds, and remove with a slotted spoon; drain and cool for a few minutes.

    2. In a bowl, combine peas, onion, bell pepper, crab, olive oil, lemon juice and some salt and pepper; taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. To serve, spoon into endive boats (or lettuce cups); garnish and serve.

    Yield: 4 or more servings.

    AND THE GRUNER?
    Go with one lighter in style for a start. If it's from the Wachau, look for "Federspiel" on the label ("Smaragd" would be too heavy). From other regions you can look for the word "Classic", which usually means it's the entry level wine from a winery. Avoid "Reserve".
    The ones listed below would work perfectly-- you can find some of them here, or check with your local wine shop as many are widely available. With the Etz Gruner Liter, if it's not at your local shop, a quick internet search will set you right up!
    The picks:
    -Stift Goettweig Gruner Veltliner Messwein
    -Hogl Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel
    -Hogl Schon Gruner Veltliner Federspiel
    -Hogl Steinterrassen Gruner Veltliner Federspiel
    -Malat Goettweiger Berg Gruner Veltliner
    -Neumayer Engelberg Gruner Veltliner
    -Winzerkeller Andau Gruner Veltliner (look for the 2011 vintage in particular)
    -Etz Gruner Veltliner Liter Bottle

  • Whole Roasted Rack of Pork with Dried Cherry Stuffing and Andau Blaufrankisch

    not the usual suspects (we're 2nd from the left)

    For his NapaStyle Cucina Wine Club, Chef Michael Chiarello has come up with a beautiful recipe pairing for our Winzerkeller Andau Blaufranksich 2009-- a whole roasted rack of pork with dried cherry stuffing. This is the second wine from us that they have featured in their wine clubs- clearly a sign of good taste on their part! But more than that, we think it shows that their selections are outside the box, which makes this a more interesting club than most. The picture here is from their website... except for the fact that they should of course be using Zalto stemware, this is a pretty great lineup.

    But back to the Andau Blaufrankisch and the pork---

    From Chef Chiarello:
    Described as a combination of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Gamay, Blaufränkisch has the grace of Pinot, the meaty structure and tannins of Syrah and the bramble of Gamay. Packed with bright, fresh fruit, this Blaufränkisch is a very approachable. The nose offers a bouquet of red plum, red grapefruit and dried blueberry with hints of spearmint, pine and forest floor. There’s a hint of pinesap on the palate with flavors of sour cherry and soft rose petal. The suave tannins are balanced with a refreshing acidity.

    This Blaufränkisch pairs well with savory, earthy dishes. Try it with big bone-in cuts of heritage pork that capture the true flavor of traditional pork or go with my Whole Roasted Rack of Pork with Dried Cherry Stuffing. Other options include roasted game birds like squab or guinea hen, marinated for a day with salt, pepper, garlic and herbs, and served alongside roasted parsnips or a well-seasoned polenta. For accent flavors, take inspiration from the wine’s herbaceous notes and look to green herbs like thyme, fennel and rosemary. For an earthy match, use mushrooms.

    Whole Roasted Rack of Pork with Dried Cherry Stuffing

    Cooking Notes from Chiarello:
    Over the years, we have evolved from roasting whole cuts of meat and poultry and moved towards roasting tiny pieces of meat, hoping it would be quicker. What we have given up is the scrumptious, satisfying quality of meat cooked on the bone. The saying is true: “the closer to the bone, the sweeter the meat!”

    Prep Time: 25 minutes
    Cook Time: 1 hour & 30 minutes
    Serves 6

    hello you beautiful chunk of pork!

    Ingredients
    2 tbsp unsalted butter
    1 bay leaf
    1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
    1 cup yellow onion, finely chopped
    1 tbsp brandy
    1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
    1/2 cup fresh orange juice
    1/4 tsp finely ground sea salt, preferably gray salt
    1 large country-style Italian loaf, about 1 pound or panatone
    1 cup dried sour cherries soaked in one cup water
    1 1/2 tbsp fresh rosemary or sage finely minced
    6 to 7 pounds center-cut, bone-in pork loin roast (8 bones)
    finely ground sea salt, preferably gray salt
    freshly ground black pepper
    1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    1 cup dry white wine
    3 cups chicken stock
    1 bay leaf

    Directions
    Preheat the oven to 350°F.

    Stuffing:
    Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over high heat, and cook until it browns. Add the bay leaf and stand back (it might pop). Lower the heat to medium and add the sugar to the pan and stir. When the sugar has melted, add the brandy and stand back (it might flame). Add the lemon juice. Cook for 15 seconds, then add the orange juice, water from the cherries and salt. Stir and cook until the liquid has reduced by half and it has reached a syrupy consistency. You should have about 1/2 cup. Remove the bay leaf.

    Using a serrated knife, shave off the thicker parts of the crust. Cut the bread into 1/2-inch cubes. You should have about 8 cups. Place the bread in a large bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the brown butter syrup. Spread the bread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until golden and crispy on the outside and still chewy inside, 15 to 20 minutes, turning occasionally for even coloring. Let cool.

    Pork:
    Let the pork roast sit at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before cooking.

    Season the trimmed pork roast generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a roasting pan over high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add the pork roast, bone side down first. Cook until well browned on all sides, including the ends, about 15 minutes total. Remove the pork and set the roasting rack inside the pan. Set pork on the rack bone side up (if you do not have a rack simply leave in the pan, but bone side down).

    Place the roast in the oven and cook until the internal temperature reaches 155°F, about 1 hour. Halfway through the cooking time, place the stuffing in the covered baking pan in the oven and cook until warm throughout, 20 to 25 minutes.

    When the roast reaches an internal temperature of 155°F, remove it from the oven, cover lightly with foil and let rest for 15–20 minutes.

  • Drink This With It - Trillium in Denver

    Trillium Restaurant in Denver

    Trillium Restaurant Denverphoto courtesy trillium

    Open Ravioli of Grilled Blue Prawns: Seared Oxford Garden Greens, Pan Roasted Hazel Dell Mushrooms & Dill "Bisque"

    They had me at hello. One glance at the menu and right there, smack in the middle, a column titled SMORGASBORD with things like Aquavit cured salmon, Long Farm ham mousse, lemon & dill pickled shrimp and Vermont maple sugar cured rainbow trout. To the left- a "Smaller Plates" column with items such as fried Lake Michigan smelts (I am a sucker for little whole fish frites), steelhead trout raaka, and roasted beet & cardamon pudding. And then to complete the trilogy, in the right hand column, "Larger Plates".... and that's where my eyes landed upon the

    Blue Prawn RavioliThe Prawn

    Open Ravioli of Grilled Blue Prawns: Seared Oxford Garden Greens, Pan Roasted Hazel Dell Mushrooms & Dill "Bisque". The chervil mash potato that accompanied the grilled Lake Superior whitefish tried to lure me away, as did the Michigan ramps (I'm a sucker for ramps... I think I just like to say "ramps") and mussel dill broth that went with the pan roasted Steelhead trout. But the prawns trumped.

    The fact is that all of the dishes above would have paired well with the wine I had in mind, that they of course just happen to have on the list: Malat Goettweiger Berg Gruner Veltliner 2009 (a lovely, and even lovelier priced GV from Kamptal). But I knew that those prawns needed that wine almost as much as the wine needed the prawns.

    Scallops Trillium Denverscallops a la trillium would have worked too

    Shellfish in general just hollers for a crisp Gruner, but the herbaceousness that would be drawn out by the greens and dill, along with that certain umami made present by the mushrooms, was going to take this whole thing up a fairly serious notch.

    And so it did. And so it does. So there you have it: when in Denver, drink that with that.

  • Smoked Trout and Sauerkraut Pizza with Dry Riesling

    Smoked Trout and Sauerkraut Pizza with a Dry Riesling

    Lots of Smoked TroutLots of Smoked Trout

    Just ask Manhattan restaurateur Paul Grieco, The General & Manager of Hearth Restaurant, Terroir Wine Bar East Village, and Terroir Tribeca. He's the man behind The Summer of Riesling, so he knows a good Riesling pairing when he sees one. OK- so this isn't actually a pairing he came up with, but we wanted to get in a mention of his Summer of Riesling National Tour because everybody should drink more Riesling.

    We first saw this recipe in a San Francisco Chronicle article a few years back, so the credit for pairing it up to the king of the white grapes goes to Lynne Char Bennett. This crisp pizza goes so well with a dry Riesling it's ridiculous. When digging around for that recipe, we found a few versions, but in kitchen testing the one below came out the best. We import a dry Riesling from the Mosel region of Germany (from Schmitges, in a liter bottle no less!), so please don't think we're against the German Riesling thing here-- but what you want is a super-mineralic, wet slate, dry-as-a-bone Riesling that is light in style and alcohol. Meaning: an Austrian Riesling. If that's coming from the Wachau region of Austria, then it should be stamped with "Federspiel" on the label (and by crazy luck, we just happen to have a few of those available here on the Winemonger website.)

    I'd suggest making this pizza in your wood burning outdoor oven, or even on the grill, with the summer sun on your shoulders and the cold glass of Riesling in your hand.... but it's just as good indoors.

    THE RECIPE
    -enough pizza dough for 3 12-inch pies (it's not so hard to make your own dough-- give it a go!)
    -cornmeal for dusting the sheet pan

    Smoked Trout Kraut Pizza

    - 1 1/3 cups sauerkraut (or to taste)
    - 1/4 cp whole-grain mustard
    - 1/4 cup dijon mustard
    - 1-2 firm sweet apples
    - 1 large thick sliced red onion, carmelized
    - 8 oz. smoked trout, flaked
    - 4 oz. grated mozzarella
    - 4 oz. grated monterey jack
    - kosher salt to taste
    - fresh ground black pepper to taste
    - fruity extra virgin olive oil to drizzle on top
    - finely grated zest from 1 large lemon

    NOW
    Preheat oven to 500, or fire up that grill.
    Roll out dough into 3 pies 1/8 inch thick, or thinner if you dare.
    Move dough to dusted sheets and poke it several times with the tines of a fork,
    Pre-bake for 3-5 minutes until crust is firm but not browned.

    Rinse the sauerkraut, drain, and then squeeze out as much moisture as you can.
    Mix the two mustards together.
    Core & thinly slice the apples (just before using, or be sure to give 'em a hit of lemon juice so they don't brown)

    PUT IT TOGETHER:
    Spread moderate amount of mustard on the pre-baked crust.
    Put equal portions (or not, depending upon your taste) of the sauerkraut, carmelized onions, trout and apples. Top with some cheese and season to taste with the salt and pepper.
    Bake or grill until the cheese is melted and the crust is browned the way you like it.
    Lightly drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with the lemon zest.

    Serve with that Riesling we've been talking about.

  • Crisp Chicken Schnitzel with Lemony Spring Herb Salad & Umathum Zweigelt - per the New York Times Wine Club

    Another feather in our cap! This time, the exclusive New York Times Reserve Wine Club has selected our Umathum Zweigelt Classic 2009. We've been racking up these prestigious wine club selections lately: Chiarello, Williams-Sonoma, NY Times... not too shabby. But the best part? They come up with some killer pairings and include the recipe... such as this one for schnitzel that we're going to share with you here. But we should say- this wine club is definitely worth checking out.

    "The secret to crisp, light schnitzel is to trap air in the crust by moving and shaking the pan. when frying the cutlet, swirl the pan so the hot oil undulates over it. This creates steam that lifts the crust away from the meat allowing the breadcrumbs to crisp."

    That quote comes from the New York Times, but we've said the same thing before in our Schnitzel 101 Recipe. Their recipe goes far further, tho, with a lovely salad that sounds just right...

    Schnitzel with Lemony Anchovy SaladMmmmm.... Schnitzel

    Crisp Chicken Schnitzel with Lemony Spring Herb Salad

    Ingredients
    6 anchovy fillets
    1 small garlic clove
    Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
    Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
    2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
    7 to 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, to taste
    2 eggs, beaten
    1 1/2 cup panko or other unseasoned bread crumbs
    1/2 cup flour
    1/8 teaspoon cayenne
    1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
    1 1/4 pounds chicken cutlets, pounded to 1/8 inch thick
    Safflower, peanut or vegetable oil, for frying
    2 quarts mixed baby greens
    2 cups soft herb leaves, like a combination of mint, tarragon, basil, parsley, cilantro, chervil, chives (try to use at least 3 kinds)
    1 scallion, thinly sliced, including greens

    Preparation
    Mince anchovies and garlic and mix with a large pinch of salt until you get a rough paste. Put it in bowl and whisk in the lemon zest, juice and another pinch of salt and some pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil.
    Place eggs in one shallow dish, bread crumbs in another, and flour mixed with cayenne and nutmeg in a third. Season chicken cutlets generously with salt and pepper.
    Heat ⁄ inch oil in a large skillet. While oil heats, dip cutlets one by one into flour (shake off any excess), then into eggs (ditto) and finally into the bread crumbs, taking care not to handle chicken more than necessary (hold meat by ends).
    When oil sizzles when a pinch of bread crumbs is thrown in, add a chicken cutlet (or 2 if your skillet is large, leave plenty of room around them). Swirl pan so oil cascades over top of cutlet in waves. When bottom is golden brown, about 3 minutes, flip and brown the other side, swirling pan (swirling helps create air pockets, giving you lighter schnitzel). Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking platter or baking tray and sprinkle with more salt. Repeat with remaining chicken.
    Toss salad greens and herbs with just enough anchovy-lemon dressing to lightly coat them. Divide salad on serving plates and top with schnitzel. Drizzle with more dressing and garnish with scallions.
    Yield: 3 to 4 servings
    Time: 25 minutes

    Originally published in The New York Times “A GOOD APPETITE; For Stellar Schnitzel, The Trick Is Air” by Melissa Clark, June 3, 2009

  • The Wine and Cheese Pairing Guide - Grape by Grape, Cheese by Cheese

    We'll always put some cheeses out on a plank when company is coming over-- not just because of the myriad pairings that bring out the best in both, but we also feel that wine all by its lonesome just doesn't get a chance to show itself off. We were once at a private tasting with Antonio Gaja, and as we sat at the table with him going through about 10 wines, he talked but didn't taste. When asked why, he said he never drinks wine without food. I figure the man knows a thing or two.....

    Your Grape-by-Grape Guide to Pairing Wine with Cheeses from Around the World

    *grapes are listed alphabetically, followed by sparkling wines, sweet wines, and then some of the classic blends*

    BARBERA
    Abbaye de Belloc
    Banon
    Fiore Sardo
    Fontina
    Grana Padano
    Lancashire
    Ossau-Iraty
    Piave
    Taleggio

    BLAUFRANKISCH
    Pair your Blaufrankisch wines (also known as Lemberger) with these cheeses:
    Cantalet
    Feta
    Limburger (esp. from Bavaria)
    Monterey Jack
    Gouda (smoked, aged, or straight up)
    Pepper Jack
    Piave
    Provolone
    Smoked cheeses
    Sublimity (washed rind cheese from Oregon)
    Washed Curd

    CABERNET SAUVIGNON
    A big Cabernet Sauvignon red will pair well with these cheeses:
    Abbaye de Belloc
    Ardrahan
    Bra Tenero
    Chalosse
    Cheddar (sharp)
    Comte
    Danish Blue
    Gouda (aged)
    Llangloffan
    Le Moulis
    Ouray
    Reblochon
    San Andreas
    Tome de Couserans

    Cantal

     

    CHARDONNAY
    Chardonnay (Burgundy, California, Chablis, Pouilly-Fuisse, Morillon, etc.) wines can pair wonderfully with these cheeses:
    Affidelice
    Alpine Shepard
    Bel Paese
    Bucheron
    Brie
    Cambazola
    Cantal
    Cashel Blue
    Chaource
    Cotija
    Dry Jack

    S F Drake Cowgirl Creamery
    S.F.Drake Cowgirl Creamery

     

    Epoisses
    French mountain cheeses
    Garrotxa
    Gruyere
    Jarlsberg (esp. Chablis)
    Panela
    Parmigiano-Reggiano
    Pave d'Auge
    Pecorino (esp. Pouilly-Fuisse)
    Provolone
    Shropshire Blue
    S.F.Drake from Cowgirl Creamery (if you're lucky enough to get a wheel when they have some)
    Tete de Moine

    Camembert

     

    CHENIN BLANC
    A few ideas for pairing Chenin Blanc with cheese:
    Blue Castello
    Camembert
    Derby
    Fouchtra
    Graddost
    Ocooch Mountain
    Raclette de Savoie

    Morbier

     

    GAMAY
    Beemster XO
    Brie
    Camembert
    Cheddar
    Comte
    Durrus
    Feta
    Morbier

    GEWURZTRAMINER
    A nice Gewurztraminer or dry Traminer wine would pair well with these cheeses:

    Alpine Cheese

    Alpine Shepard
    Ardrahan
    Boursin
    Chevre
    Durrus
    Meunster
    Pecorino Romano
    Robiola
    Swiss
    Tome d'Aquitaine
    Tumalo Tomme
    Wensleydale

    GRUNER VELTLINER
    Known as being a great food wine that can pair with almost anything, including artichokes and asparagus, Gruner Veltliner will also pair well with these cheeses:

    Garrotxa

     

    Appenzeller
    Brin D’Amour
    Caerphilly
    Chimay
    Double Gloucester
    Garrotxa
    Harbourne Blue
    Harvest Moon (washed rind cheese)
    Munster
    Livarot
    Ibores
    Mahon
    Vacherin Fribourgeois

    MALBEC
    Malbec wines pair well with these cheeses:
    Cashel Blue
    Iberico
    Manchego
    Mimolette
    Taleggio

    Gruyere

     

    MERLOT
    Merlot, and even some Merlot blends, will pair nicely with these cheeses:
    Abbaye de Belloc
    Alpine Shepard
    Cantalet
    Camembert
    Chalosse
    Doddington
    Gouda
    Gruyere
    Ibores

    Robiola

     

    Montasio
    Pecorino Toscano
    Robiola Bosina
    Roncal
    Toussaint

    MUSCAT
    A white Muscat wine, be it dry, off-dry or semi-sweet, will pair nicely with these cheeses:
    Blu del Moncenisio
    Fourme d'Ambert
    Gorgonzola
    Monte Enebro
    Valdeon

    Piave

     

    NEBBIOLO
    Fontina
    Grana Padano
    Piave

    PETIT SYRAH
    Arina
    Benning
    Darcy
    Pierre-Qui-Vire
    Saint-Florentin
    Soumaintrain

    Fontina D'Aosta

     

    PINOT BLANC
    Pinot Blanc (AKA Weissburgunder) wines pair particularly well with these cheeses:
    Baby Swiss
    Brie
    Camembert
    Dry Jack
    Feta
    Fontina D’Aosta
    Montasio
    Ossau-Iraty
    Pierre-Robert
    Pont L’Eveque
    Robiola Vite
    Sbrinz
    Taleggio

    Banon

     

    PINOT GRIS
    Pair your Pinot Gris with these cheeses:
    Asiago Fresco
    Banon
    Camellia
    Caprino Tartufo
    Crottin
    Garroxta
    Ricotta
    St. Nectaire

    PINOT NOIR
    Try pairing your Pinot Noir with these cheeses:

    Berkswell
    Buche
    Cheddar (light)
    Comte
    Edam
    Epoisses (with a big Pinot)
    French Chevre (Cabriflore is a good example)
    Fumaison
    Gouda
    Gruyere
    Inverness
    Lancashire
    Port Salut
    Saint Andre

    Stanser Rotelli

     

    RIESLING
    Austrian, Alsatian, American and German Rieslings will pair with these cheeses:
    Cheshire
    Colby
    Comte
    Cotija
    Edam
    Gouda
    Monterey Jack
    Morbier
    Panela
    St.Andre
    Swiss mountain cheeses
    Red Hawk, Mt.Tam or St.Pat from the Cowgirl Creamery

    Saval
    Stanser Rotelli
    Tarentaise
    Tomme Fermiere d'Alsace

    SANGIOVESE
    Sangiovese (AKA Chianti) wines will work well with these cheeses:
    Asiago
    Boschetto al Tartufo Bianchetto
    Dry Jack
    Fontina
    Georgia Pecan Chevre
    Mozzarella
    Parmesan Reggiano
    Pecorino
    Piave
    Provolone
    Ricotta

    SAUVIGNON BLANC
    We particularly recommend pairing Sauvignon Blanc with goat cheese (many types of which are listed here) but we also love it with these other cheeses:
    Abbaye de Belloc
    Amarelo
    Blue Castello
    Brie
    Bucheron
    Cheddar (sharp)
    Cheshire
    Clochette
    Coulommiers
    Coupole
    Crottin
    Derby
    Double Gloucester
    Drunken Goat
    Dry Jack

    Goat Cheese

     

    Explorateur
    Goat Cheese
    Graddost
    Gruyere
    Mahon
    Majorero
    Neufchatel
    Pave D’Affinois
    Selles sur Cher
    Sonoma Jack
    Teleme

    Taleggio

     

    ST.LAURENT
    St.Laurent, which is a bit like Pinot Noir with a wild side, will pair with these cheeses:
    Comte
    Edam
    French Chevre
    Taleggio

    SYRAH / SHIRAZ
    A spicy Shiraz will pair well with a few cheeses:
    Cheddar (sharp)
    Edam
    Gouda
    St. Nectaire

    TEMPRANILLO
    A good Tempranillo wine will pair well with these cheeses:

    Azeitao
    Cheddar (sharp)
    Cotswold
    Dubliner
    Fium 'Orbu
    Fleur du Maquis
    Havarti
    Mahon
    Manchego
    Serena
    Tomme de Savoie
    Zamarano

    Livarot

     

    VIOGNIER
    Pair your Viognier wines with these cheeses:
    Blue cheeses (light)
    Brillat-Savarin
    Goat
    Livarot
    Pave d'Auge
    Stanser Rotelli
    Tourmalet

    ZINFANDEL
    A hearty Zinfandel (AKA Primitivo) red wine will work beautifully with these cheeses:
    Asiago
    Canestrato
    Dry Sonoma Jack
    Goat cheese
    Gouda
    Gruyere

    Zamorano

     

    Maytag Blue
    Muenster
    Pau
    Pecorino (esp. Fiore Sardo)
    Piave
    Zamorano

    ZWEIGELT
    Zweigelt, a red wine backed with great spice notes, pairs well with these cheeses:
    Cheddar (sharp)
    Edam
    Gouda
    Salers, A.O.C.
    Selun (a Swiss cows milk cheese)
    St. Nectaire

    SPARKLING WINE
    All styles of sparkling wines, including Champagne, will pair well with these cheeses:
    Baby Swiss
    Beaufort
    Brie
    Brillat-Savarin
    Camembert
    Cheddar (mild)
    Chevre

    Sbrinz

     

    Cooleeney
    Crescenza
    Edam (for dry wines)
    Explorateur
    Fromage de Meaux
    Gouda
    Langres
    Pierre Robert
    Pont l'Eveque
    Sbrinz

    SWEET WINE / DESSERT WINE
    Pair your Ice Wines, BA's, TBA's, Sauternes, Tokaji, and Ruster Ausbruch wines with these cheeses:

    Blue cheeses:
    Bleu des Basques Brebis
    Bleu de Sassenage
    Cashel Blue
    Fourme d'Ambert
    Maytag Blue
    or
    Crème Fraiche
    Marscapone
    Taleggio

    PORT
    Cheddar (sharp)
    Gorgonzola
    Roqueforte
    Stilton

    BORDEAUX (red)
    Brie
    Camembert
    Chalosse
    Gabletou
    Roqueforte
    Tome de Bordeaux
    Tome des Recollets

    CôTES Du RHôNES (red)
    Bleu d'Auvergne
    Camembert
    Chevrotin des Aravis
    Fourme d'Ambert
    Reblochon

    One easy rule of thumb if you don't find what you're looking for here- pairing a wine with a cheese that comes from the same region is usually a fair bet.

  • Moric Reserve and Pork Loin Chops with Roasted Rhubarb - per Williams-Sonoma

    Moric Blaufrankisch, Williams-Sonoma, and a Recipe for Pork Loin

    Moric Blaufrankisch ReserveMoric Reserve 2008

    For their Connoisseur Wine Club, Williams-Sonoma paired up our Moric Reserve Blaufrankisch 2008 with a recipe for pork loin chops with roasted rhubarb. We have to hand it to them: this is an excellent match-up. Clearly they are running a wine club with some more out-of-the-box picks, and doing the testing in their kitchen to deliver great ideas. We'll share with you their notes and recipe, with links to their website for more information:

    Pork Loin Chops with Roasted Rhubarb
    In this recipe from Williams-Sonoma, rhubarb harmonizes with the red fruit flavors in the Moric Blaufränkisch, while a touch of allspice brightens the wine’s savory peppery notes. Pork loin chops, like beef porterhouse steaks, include both the loin and the tenderloin, separated by the rib bone. Here, the chops are roasted on a bed of onions and rhubarb. Select firm rhubarb stalks, either red or green, with bright, glossy skin.

    INGREDIENTS

    Pork Loin with Roasted Rhubarb RecipePork Loin with Roasted Rhubarb, Courtesy Williams-Sonoma

    For the rhubarb:
    1 lb. rhubarb, trimmed and cut into slices 3/4 inch thick
    1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
    2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
    1/4 cup reduced-sodium chicken stock 1/2 tsp. whole allspice, ground Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
    1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
    6 pork loin chops, each 8 to 10 oz. and 1 inch thick
    2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
    Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
    1 cup apple juice
    1 tsp. cornstarch
    1 Tbs. water

    PREPARATION
    Preheat an oven to 375°F. Butter the bottom of a roasting pan.
    To roast the rhubarb, in the prepared pan, stir together the rhubarb, onion, olive oil, stock, allspice, and a sprinkle each of salt and pepper. Spread the mixture out in an even layer. Cover with foil and roast until the rhubarb and onion are tender, about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Sprinkle the rhubarb mixture with the brown sugar, stir well and spread the mixture out in an even layer.

    Let the pork chops stand at room temperature 20 minutes. Brush the chops on both sides with the olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Preheat a large fry pan over high heat. Add the chops and sear for 2 minutes. Turn the chops over and sear for 1 minute. Transfer to the roasting pan, arranging the chops in a single layer on top of the rhubarb; reserve the fry pan. Transfer the roasting pan to the oven and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 150°F, about 7 minutes. Transfer the chops to warmed plates and tent with foil.

    Pour off any fat from the fry pan, set over medium heat and add the apple juice. Boil until reduced to about 1⁄3 cup, 4 to 5 minutes. Add any liquid from the rhubarb mixture to the fry pan and reduce the heat to low. In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the water. Whisk the mixture into the fry pan a little at a time and simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the rhubarb mixture and heat through. Spoon the rhubarb mixture over the chops. Serve immediately.

    (Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Essentials of Roasting, by Rick Rodgers, Melanie Barnard & Bob and Colleen Simmons (Oxmoor House, 2004).)

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