Jancis Robinson, the doyenne of Britsh wine writers, just published her associate Tamlyn Currin’s long and lovely tasting-list of extraordinary wines from Stift Goettweig, dating back to the 1980s—new releases as well as “ancient” bottlings that our friend Fritz Miesbauer found stashed away in a dark corner of the monks’ private cellar.
The 26 hectares of vines at Goettweig are planted mostly to Grüner Veltliner, with half as much Riesling, a small but important patch of Pinot Noir and some Chardonnay. A far more complete profile of this historic winery and the winemaker in charge can be found here.
For those who subscribe to Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages, this link gets you the whole ratings and tasting story.* The short version is, Goettweig’s wines, although appreciably different of character in all recent vintages, were evaluated at a very high and consistent level.
Here are a couple of notes from our English colleagues:
Stift Goettweig Grüner Veltliner Messwein 2009
The Göttweiger Messwein, or ‘Altar wine’, has been traditionally made by the Benedictine monastery for hundreds of years. It has to be made according to the Reinheitsgebot, or the ‘purity law’ of the church, which dictates vineyard care and winery practices. Messwein cannot be produced without the permission of the bishop, and it must be only
natural and unaltered.
Apple- and lime- flavoured boiled sweets on the nose. Crisp primary fruits, lime leaf, neatly and simply cut out. (TC) 12%
This wine will arrive at port in just a few weeks. Currently available is the luscious 2008 vintage:
Bottle:$18 / Case: $216
Stift Goettweig Grüner Veltliner Goettweiger Berg 2008
Ripe juicy nectarine and satsuma aromas with just a suggestion of caraway seed. On the palate, something distinctly exotic – sweet apricot and orange flecked with cumin and caraway, a brush of salty saffron and a bite of lime. Lazily unfurling on the tongue… (TC) 12.5%
Bottle $26.25 / Case $315
…and in addition to Jancis Robinson’s selected wines from the Stift, we have also available—and not to be missed—the magnificent 2008 Riesling Silberbichl. From a southeast-facing parcel actually in the Wachau, nose of vineyard peach overtoned with mashed mango. Nicely chewy depth of fruit, great finesse and filigree, with a detailed mineral presence (from loess over gravel and weathered rock).
Bottle: $33.75 / Case: $405
*We highly recommend subscribing to the Purple Pages. And we’re not getting anything in return for saying so!