Marion Ebner gets a glittering recommendation from her mentor, the Viennese master Fritz Wieninger, who tells us “Marion is quite a unique personality. Despite her youth she makes such a vivid impression—not only verbally, but she also gets it into the bottle. It’s only a very small group of individuals we could say that about, and I’m very proud of her.”
Grüner Veltliner is a member of the Burgundy family of grapes; it counts Traminer as one parent like Chardonnay does, which makes them cousins. And much has been made in the press—by Jancis Robinson and others—about the af- finity that GV shows with excellent white Burgundy. So it is no surprise that under the right circumstances Grüner Veltliner should find its way into a barrique, and then emerge months later with surprisingly delicious results.
Marion was not born to the vine, as are most Austrian vintners, but found her way there while still a teenager. By her talent alone, she has earned access to the lyra-trained vines of Schloss Gobelsburg’s Ried Lamm, whence come the Grüner Veltliner grapes that go to make the Melusine.
Aged for nearly a year in French barriques, Melusine is a complex, powerful and beautifully structured GV in a very elegant package—not to mention the physical package: Burgundy bottle, wax-sealed. Marion named the wine for the medieval water-nymph, to underscore its feminine and seductive traits. If the critics—both foreign and domestic—are to be believed, it comes as no surprise that we are seduced.