Lower Austria
Niederösterreich is the largest of the primary growing regions. The others are the city of Vienna, Burgenland, and Styria. Its size alone might grant Lower Austria a greater diversity than the other three, but that doesn't begin to complete the picture. There are eight winegrowing districts that make up Lower Austria. The most famous of these is the Wachau, and the most prolific is the Weinviertel, literally the wine-quarter, which produces a colossal amount of very flavorful and slightly homogenous Grüner Veltliner.
There: we said the magic word.
Grüner Veltliner (aka Weissgipfler) is the national treasure of Austria, and it is the unifying theme which binds these eight subregions together, although one might be hard-put to find much of it in the Thermenregion, and there isn't a great deal of it in Carnuntum.
The most memorable wines from Lower Austria are white, and typically come from a stretch which starts with the western end of the Wachau, and ends right before the viticultural city limits of the nation's capital. The most outstanding feature of this area is the river Danube, die Donau to germanophones, which runs through the wine-country from Melk to Vienna, nourishing three districts named for the valleys of its tributary rivers: Kamptal, Kremstal and Traisental, and a fourth, Wagram, which takes its name from the foothills which bind it to the river.
What makes Lower Austria unique and outstanding in the world of wine?
Perhaps nowhere else are such comparably fine wines made from so many different grape varieties:
In addition to the aforementioned King of the Hill, there is the great Rhine Riesling, which Austria shares with Germany and Alsace. Then, we must mention the presence of very fine Pinot Noir, succulent Zweigelt and striking St Laurent. With those we cross over into the realm of red wine, and very successfully, I might add, before falling back into the white varieties to mention Weissburgunder, which shows terrific potential for something whose name means pinot blanc.
Additionally, there are significant successful plantings of Grauer Burgunder, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Then we can make space on the rack for Roter Veltliner, Muskateller and Neuburger, which can be occasionally exceptional.
Thermenregion offers its couple rarities, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler, and you might even find all of the above growing in a single vineyard in the city of Vienna, like representatives all together at Parliament in the capital, but that's another story.
Great grapes make delicious wine, but when great grapes are grown in extraordinarily specific and unique soils, the wines transcend delicious and become profound. The soils of Lower Austria range from the Urgestein, primary rock, of the Wachau, through volcanic terroirs of the Kamptal and the fossil limestone of the Traisental, and happily include the deep loess of Wagram, with many combinations along the way.
And then there are the many creative growers, who have put in so much work in the past couple decades to elevate the state of their art and give the wine-drinking world pleasures that were unimagined twenty years ago.
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Donabaum Johann Gruner Veltliner 2015
Elegant, round, but with good acid, fine, slightly peppery, slightly creamy, left long on lees. A terrific value for first rate Wachau Learn More -
Donabaum Offenberg Riesling Smaragd 2015
A noble Riesling, magnificent floral nose and full, but not heavy body. One of the great Wachau wines of the vintage. 94 points. Learn More -
Donabaum Spitzer Point Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 2016
Clear and fresh, delivering bright fruit, minerality, and that classic spice on the finish. Learn More$25.15 -
Donabaum Spitzer Point Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 2015
Rich GrĂ¼ner Veltliner, creamy, gold green, creamy, intense, stony, gneiss-infused wine. Powerful but not heavy. Almost feminine. 94 points. Learn More$49.99 -
Ebner Ebenauer Gruner Veltliner Bursting 2016
The richest and ripest Veltliner from this estate. 50 year old vines. Natural fermentation. Learn MoreRegular Price: $27.50
Loose-Ends Sale $22.50
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Ebner Ebenauer Gruner Veltliner Hermanschachern 2016
A crisp interplay of fruit and acidity which gives the wine excellent length. Learn More -
Ebner Ebenauer Gruner Veltliner Sauberg 2016
Powerful Gruner Veltliner with a stronger mineral profile than the Bursting. Gravel soil, and very old vines (53 years old). Learn MoreRegular Price: $27.50
Loose-Ends Sale $19.90
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Ebner Ebenauer Sankt Laurent Alte Reben 2013
Sankt Laurent from old vines planted in 1958 produce this juicy and powerful red, wih notes of cherry and fine spices. Learn MoreRegular Price: $26.25
Loose-Ends Sale $23.50
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Gruber-Roschitz Gruner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC 2018
Biologically farmed Gruner Veltliner from the Weinviertel in Austria. Pure, focused and incredible value from a bio certified winery. Learn More$16.00 -
Gruber-Roschitz Riesling Roschitz 2018
Biological farming on the granite islands surrounding the winery in Roschitz made for crisp and complex Riesling and immense value from this bio producer. Learn More$18.75