Of all the wine regions in Austria, the Weinviertel (wine quarter) is both the largest and the most nebulous. Much of it doesn’t even look like a wine area. You can drive miles and not see a single vineyard. And then suddenly, there is a village and vines and Caves. The Czech border is not far away; the country is rolling hills and mostly farmland, and the villages sleepy and quiet. Poysdorf is a typical Weinviertel town. At first glance you would never guess it had anything to do with wine. Yet, practically in the center of town live two of the most dynamic young wine makers in Austria, Marion Ebner, and Manfred Ebenauer.
Manfred grew up here, his exuberant father still works in the fifteen hectare estate which goes back many generations. Marion, on the other hand, fell in love with wine, studied with the well-known Viennese master, Fritz Wieninger, and then produced some amazing and unusual wines, barrique-aged, from the Schloss Gobelsburg estate. Somehow the two met, fell in love and were married in 2007. They form what seems to be a perfect partnership, he with a farmer’s background and deep knowledge of the land and his vineyards; she with technical sophistication hip to all the new trends and discoveries in the modern wine world.
60-65% of the wine produced is Grüner Veltliner. But there is also a fair amount of Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), and smaller amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, St. Laurent, and Pinot Noir. Vineyards are frequently quite venerable, with some vines over 60 years old. Natural yeast is a given for these wines. Soil tends to be mostly loam and loss, often sandy, often dense. One of the vineyards, the Hermannsachern, its clay soil laced with fossil limestone, was first mentioned in 1338, so there is plenty of wine history in this area. Other excellent vineyards include the Birthal, Bürsting, and the Sauberg.
This elegant winery is rapidly becoming a flag-ship estate for the Weinviertel. With these two ridiculously attractive people making both fascinating reds and whites, not to mention their feel for experimentation, Ebner-Ebenauer’s reputation will only increase over the years.
Ebner Ebenauer always followed organic principles so Marion and Manfred eventually decided to get certified under LACON.
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