When Moric magically produces a highly seductive crisp and complex blend of mostly Gruner Veltliner and some Chardonnay we are not surprised. Here seemingly simple ingredients and techniques produce wines that are a far cry from stereotypical fruit-forward expressions, wines that touch a nerve. His Hausmarke ("House Wine") comes across as the quintessential understatement: a highly complex and satisfying white, fresh and lively with hard-to-pin-down notes of citrus and fennel, apparently the entry-level wine at the Moric estate. Unfortunately, the annual availability of this wine is always short-lived. This wine ages beautifully and we recommend putting a few bottles away for the long haul.