Though most of Stephane Orieux's Muscadet is on mica-schist soils, these old vines at the Clos de la Coudray grow in granite. The wine has the discreet intensity of a long-lived Muscadet, layering its floral delicacy above melon rind bitterness over meaty, wild mushroom notes of umami. It tastes, in fact, a bit like an oyster, and if you drink it now, that salty, briny flavor will be a perfect match for raw fruits de mer. Cellar it and you will have a perfect wine for richer seafood preparations.