Moric Saint George Gruner Veltliner 2015
Vines of a respectable age, planted in fossil limestone in the Neusiedlersee Huegelland village of St Georgen.
Like all of its predecessors, the signature scents are those of the special soils in which the vines were grown, rather than what we have come to consider the typical varietal character of Gruner Veltiner from our experience with Lower Austria.
As usual, the wine shows a greater affinity with fine white Burgundy than it does with Gruner Veltliner from the Danube regions like the Wachau.As a result the Austrian tasting commission has consistently denied this and similar wines the approval that grants the winery the right to print variety and origin on the front label. Roland Velich decries what he calls a bureaucratic overreach by demonstratively blackening out the parts of the label that don't comply.