Kolfok Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben 2017
Old vines planted in the 50s/60s on both sand and on heavy clay soils. Whole clusters are gently hand-pressed then spontaneously fermented in 500-600 liter barrels. Natural winemaking. An intense Gruner Veltliner with a cool minerality, and long complex finish. Ultrafine style.
93 points from Wine Spectator:
Subtle and elegant, yet full of energy. This is nuanced, with the layers emerging one after another. Notes of cardamom and coriander come first, followed by green peach and pear flavors, and rounded up by a burst of floral and herbal hints. Not a powerhouse, but shows great minerality and focus. Needs a bit more time. Best from 2021 through 2030.
A natural wine? Sure. But that label does not define it.