Ried Steinperz sits on sparse, stony gneiss in Straning — ancient crystalline bedrock from what was once a primeval seabed — and the 30–45-year-old vines have clearly learned to push deep. Whole-bunch pressed, spontaneously fermented, and aged in a mix of stainless and large oak, the 2024 is dense and taut, with grapefruit pith, yellow apple, and a lingering pomelo lift on the finish. Serious Grüner with real structure — give it time or a rich fish dish.